Caring For African Violets

The African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) can be one of the most satisfying flowering houseplants. It is a low, compact plant with attractive dark green, thick, hairy leaves. The violet-like flowers are borne in small panicles just above the foliage. Cultivars are available with pink, fuschia and white flowers, as well as the more traditional shades of blue-violet. Newer violets include cultivars with semi-double or double rows of petals. Bi-colored flowers and those with a contrasting border are popular. Trailing cultivars and miniatures are also available. Plants kept in good condition flower almost continuously.

Potting and Propagation:

A soil mixture composed of about 2 parts fertile loam, 1 part leaf mold or peat and 1 part sand or perlite is recommended for growing African violets. The soil must be porous to allow surplus water to pass through readily. Most violets are now grown in a pasteurized soilless mix--a good soilless mix is made up of 3 parts sphagnum peat moss, 2 parts vermiculite and 1 part perlite, with some lime added to balance the acidity of the peat moss. Compost, good garden soil or loam can be used for up to half of the total mix, with the other half vermiculite and/or perlite. A good growing medium should contain 50 percent matter, 25 percent air and 25 percent water. When potting African violets, take care to set the plant so that the crown is just above the surface and the soil is firmly pressed around it. Emphasis in planting should be on good soil drainage, as any free water on the surface may cause decay at the crown or at the bases of the leaf stalks. A saturated soil mix also leads to unthrifty top growth and root rots. A layer of coarse gravel at the bottom of the container will not improve drainage.

Store-bought potting mixes are pasteurized. If using a homemade potting mix, it should be pasteurized and the pots disinfected before planting. Place a 4-inch layer of the mix in a flat pan and wet it slightly. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and seal the edges. Preheat an oven to 180 to 200 degrees F. Place the soil in the oven and hold it at that temperature for at least 30 minutes before removing it to cool. When reusing pots, wash them thoroughly and then soak them for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 part household chlorine bleach in 9 parts water. Rinse the pots until all traces of chlorine are gone.

Repot violets about once a year, or when the leafless portion of the stem is about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. Gently remove the plant from the pot with a paring knife. Remove all lateral crowns, leaving only the center crown. Trim off one or two rows of leaves, leaving a wheel of leaves around the crown. With the paring knife, scrape the neck as you would a carrot until all the brown plant material is removed and the neck is firm and green. Break or cut off the bottom half of the root. Have a clean pot ready for the pruned violet. Gently firm in new soil around the plant and water well. The pot should be one-third the diameter of the plant; a 4-inch pot is usually adequate.

The usual method of propagation is by leaf cuttings during the spring. Cut off mature leaves with one inch of their stalks. Firmly plant the stalks into sand or vermiculite with most of the leaf blades exposed. Thoroughly water the sand. In greenhouses, the benches of cuttings are usually covered with light muslin or glass to keep the air moist. In the window garden, a few cuttings can be covered with a glass jar or plastic. In two to six months, young plants start from the bases of the stalks, which are ready to be potted after they have formed two or three small leaves.

Growing Conditions:

African violets adjust well to the warm temperatures and dry air of homes. Although they require good light, direct sunlight is not necessary. Windows facing north or east provide favorable light conditions and are preferable to those exposed to midday and afternoon sunshine during summer. The sunnier, warmer windows are better in the winter.

Ideal temperatures for African violets are about 60 degrees F at night and up to 80 to 85 degrees F during the day. The plants become stunted at cool temperatures and are slow to recover, even when moved into a warm place. Plants are especially susceptible to rot in hot weather (over 85 degrees F).

Watering:

The soil must be kept moist at all times, the foliage should be kept dry. Drops of water on the leaves cause disfiguring light-colored spots or rings. Proper watering can be simplified by keeping the pots in watertight saucers or bowls into which a little water is poured every few days. A wick extending through the drainage hole into a saucer of water may also be used. Another effective method is to submerge the pots in peat or sphagnum moss within in a larger container and apply water to the peat or moss as needed to keep the soil moist in the pots. In either of these methods, water moves from the saucer or peat by diffusion through the hole in the bottom of the pot and into the soil ball. More

By: The University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program

How To Make a Terrarium

By: Kerry Michaels

You can make a terrarium in less than an hour. Making terrariums can be quick, easy and doesn't have to be expensive. To save money, shop discount stores, flea markets or consignment shops, where you can find really cheap yet great looking glass containers, jars or even goldfish bowls. The plants you’ll use are generally small houseplants, which often only cost a couple of bucks each, so the whole project, depending on the size of your jars, can be made for well under $20. Terrariums also make wonderful and impressive gifts, even for people who consider themselves plant-challenged.

•  Glass containers with or without tops

•  Gravel, sea glass or beach stones

•  Activated charcoal (found at a nursery or pet supply store)

•  Terrarium plants

•  Sterile potting mix

•  Moss (optional)

•  Decorative elements (optional)

You can really use anything for a terrarium, as long as it is glass. You can even use heavy plastic, but I prefer the look and feel of glass.

For your terrarium, look for a jar or container with a wide mouth. While it is possible to use something with a small opening, it is much easier to add plants if your container has a wide mouth. Also, keep in mind that ideally you don’t want your plants touching the sides of your jar; so the wider the bowl the more plants and soil you’ll be able to fit.

Also, keep in mind, if you use a large container, you will have a greater choice of types and size plants you can use as well as the option of fitting in decorative elements, such as shells, figurines or ornaments.

I found these jars that are perfect for terrariums at a discount store - all cost $7.00 or less. I chose them because I wanted to make an arrangement of three terrariums that would sit on a corner table.

When choosing terrarium plants, make sure they are small enough to fit in your container, preferably without touching the sides. You'll also want to buy plants that don’t mind a humid environment. This leaves out most succulents and cactus.

However, if you have your heart set on succulents, you can make beautiful terrariums with these plants, but you will want to make a topless terrarium and add clean, course sand to your potting mix.

When considering terrarium plants, look for plants that like low to medium light. I also try to get a mix of sizes, leaf textures and leaf colors.

Here's a list of possible terrarium plants. Lots of others will work, but these are some of my favorites.

Your container will not have drainage holes in the bottom so you’ll want to create a place for extra water to go that keeps it away from your plants’ roots. I often put a layer of sheet moss in the bottom of my terrarium to soak up extra water. I also like the way it looks.

If you don't have moss, you can also start a layer of stones. Put at least 2” layer of stones in the bottom (you do have some flexibility with this if your container is shallow).

Next, using a large a spoon, add an ¼ to ½ inch layer of activated charcoal on top of the stones. The purpose of this is to help drainage and control any odor that might occur. More

Begonia Care Tips

By: Margery Stewart Baxter

Warm temperatures and joyful devotion from a gardener are what helps begonias grow tall, strong and colorful. Found in shades of white, pink, yellow, and scarlet, this flowering plant is hardy and easy to grow. All it requires is a little sun, a little water, and a lot of love.

Your new begonia plant can be a part of your home décor for a long time if it is cared for in the right way. We have provided instructions here, as well as with the begonia so you can delight in this flowering plant for as long as you choose to care for it.

1) Plant begonia in pot that allows about 2 inches of space all the way around the roots. Using a pot that is too large will hold too much water and not allow the begonia to properly grow.

2) Begonias like to sit in locations that have daily full to partial morning sunlight.

3) Put the plant on a regular watering schedule. The soil should be kept moist, but not wet or soggy. If soil is dry to the touch, the plant needs water. If it is wet, it has received too much. Too much water can cause root rot and kill the begonia. We suggest watering over a sink or bowl so the excess water can drain out.

4) Feed the plant a balanced houseplant fertilizer once a month. Follow directions on the label of plant food.

5) Prune the plant by removing any blooms that are faded or dead. Leaving deadheads on the plant will cause it to spend its energy trying to revive them, instead of focusing its energy on keeping the rest of the plant healthy.

6) Begonias should live in a temperature of 65-72°F. They grow well in warmer, more humid temperatures.

Propagating Begonia

Stem-propagating technique
Remove a top-growth cutting or tip cutting from the plant, leaving three to four leaves. Make the cut just below the stem node (the place where the leaf and stem join). It is important to be sure there is a dormant eye or bud at this node. Remove the bottom and dip the cutting into a rooting hormone, such as Dyna Gro Root Jell.

Next, stick the cutting into a container with a rooting medium -- a peat-based potting mix, sand, or perlite -- and then thoroughly water. In the winter home environment, the pot and cutting is placed into a clear plastic bag to help increase humidity until the cutting has begun to root. The new cutting is then placed in an area that is warm (about 70 degrees) and bright, but keep it out of the hot noonday sun. Depending on the temperature, it can take several weeks for the plant to root. Once roots are established, the plant can be taken out of the bag and placed in a brighter spot that gets some direct sun light. As the cutting grows, it can be repotted and cultured into a new specimen.

Leaf-propagating technique
 Remove a mature leaf and the leaf petiole from the plant. Dip the stem at the cut into a rooting hormone, and then stick it into a container with sand or a peat-based potting mix and water. Leaf cuttings at this time can again be placed into a plastic bag, but generally it isn't necessary.

Next, place the cutting and container in an area that is warm (about 70 degrees) and bright, but keep it out of the hot noonday sun. In several weeks, the stem will root. In 8 to 12 weeks, a young plant will emerge from the base of the stem. These young plants should be allowed to grow until they are several inches in height, at which point they can be separated and repotted. Once roots are established, the plant can be moved to a brighter location with some direct sunlight.

Resources:

Byron Martin, owner of Logee's Greenhouses in Danielson, Connecticut

Begonia 'Palomar Prince' Rhizomatous

This rhizomatous begonia strikes a royal presence when it comes into its fullness. The dark green, deeply cut double-spiraled leaves are dashed with flecks of lighter green and accented by golden veins. Tall sprays of pink flowers appear in winter adding to its grandeur. Like most begonias, this is easily grown in moderate light and adaptable to the home environment. When mature, it can reach over a foot in height. This beauty was created by Mike Kartuz of Vista, CA.

Begonias prefer moist, well drained soil that is allowed to dry out thoroughly between waterings, especially overwinter. Grow in bright, indirect light and keep above 60F.