How to Start Begonia Seeds

By Andrea Di Salvo, eHow Contributor

These tender perennials are familiar to most gardeners in the U.S., most of whom grow begonias as annuals because the plants can't abide frost. Despite the begonia's fragility, though, gardeners still love these flowers because they are both forgiving and easy to grow. If conditions allow, you can start begonias in a cold frame, an outdoor nursery or indoors under natural or artificial light. With just a little bit of preparation, these blooms will grace your garden or flowerbed all summer long.

Things You'll Need

• Begonia seeds Coarse sphagnum moss, gravel or pebbles Pasteurized soil Sand Peat moss Flats Glass or plastic coverings Suitable garden area or containers

Instructions

1. • 1
     Plan in advance. Allow anywhere from 10 weeks to 6 months to grow begonias from seed. Seeds sown in February or later probably won't flower well that same year, so start seeds between October and December for 4-inch plants the following spring.
   • 2
     Ensure drainage. Improve drainage by placing a layer of coarse sphagnum moss on the bottom of the flat before adding the potting mix. If growing in pots, use gravel or pebbles from a freshwater stream.
   • 3
     Mix soil. Prepare a finely textured planting mix by combining equal parts pasteurized soil, sand and peat moss. Press the blend through a sieve to create a fine texture.
   • 4
     Plant into flats. Scatter seeds on the surface of your potting media. Press in lightly but leave uncovered so light can reach the seeds.
   • 5
     Keep moist. Cover the flat with glass or plastic to maintain high humidity. Water from below, by placing the flat in a tub of water, to avoid damping-off.
   • 6
     Maintain temperature. Germinate at 68 to 72 degrees F with nights no colder than 55 degrees. Seedlings usually will emerge in 7 to 15 days with a soil temperature of 70 to 80 degrees.
   • 7
     Harden off. Harden the begonias for transplant by placing them outside for a short time each day. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight, since the leaves sunburn easily.
   • 8
     Prepare soil for containers. Prepare a garden space or container with moist but well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and has a pH of 6 to 8. Make sure the area is in dappled sunlight or part shade with a northern or eastern exposure.
   • 9
     Plant out. Transplant the begonias 30 to 45 days after sowing, once all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures no longer drop below 50 degrees F. Begonias prefer 65-degree nights and 75- to 85-degree days.

     
     

     Tips & Warnings

     • Begonia seeds are very fine, almost powder-like, and need light to germinate. Expect 70 percent germination from seed from the previous summer's crop. Older seed will germinate at roughly 50 percent to 60 percent. Even perennial begonias will not winter in most parts of the U.S., but begonia grandis is hardy in zones 7 and 8, and in southern areas of zone 6.
     • Feed begonias sparingly, because over-fertilizing can cause weak stems that need staking. A single application of compost or fertilizer should serve your plants all season.

     
     
     

Grow Healthy Succulents

Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. 

Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.

As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.

No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:

Light:

Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.

Temperature:

Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70ºF and about 85ºF and nighttime temperatures between 50ºF and 55ºF.

Water:

Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:

•  Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.

Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.

By Jon VanZile, About.com Guide

Growing Begonias Indoors

by Brad Thompson

Except for the members that are blessed with a climate where they can grow begonias outdoors year round, most growers have to learn how to grow begonias indoors. Sometimes it's only for the winter months, but for some plants and people it's a year around proposition.

Most houses, especially those with forced air heat, are not perfectly suited for growing begonias indoors. Most begonias can be grown in your home, however, if you are careful to provide each with its particular requirements. There are also a few tricks that will help make growing them in the house more successful.

1. Location and Light

The first consideration is where exactly are the begonias going to live. The best light for growing indoors is to use fluorescent lighting. This will give you the most control over the amount of light your plants get. It doesn't have to be an expensive or lavish setup. Even a simple shop light with ordinary cool white tubes will suffice if you want to save money. A more expensive, but possibly more useful idea if you plan to start a larger collection of plants is to purchase a light stand. These can be bought from most mail order catalogs. The lights should run about 14 hours a day, but I have left lights on 24 hours a day and the plants did fine. The tubes should be just a couple inches above the tallest plant on the shelf.

Most of us also have natural light that we would like to take advantage of. There are begonias that will grow in nearly every window location except probably not well in a north window. Some plants in terrariums may grow fine in a north window, however. Different areas of the country vary as far as light intensity during the months of the year. You might have to experiment to find which plants grow in which windows. If you find that the plants are stretching, they need more light and if they are stunted and burning then they need to be farther from the window or moved to a window with less light. A good share of begonias will grow in a south window and most will grow in either an eastern or western exposure.

2. Pots and Potting Mixes

How your plants are potted and what soil mix you use will have a lot to do with how successful you are. Begonias hate to be over-potted or over-watered. It is hard to kill an under-potted begonia, but they can die pretty fast if over-potted. Don't move begonias to a larger pot until roots have filled the current pot. If you find that a certain plant never seems to dry out, it is probably in too large of a pot. Move it down to a size that fits the rootball after you've removed all the soggy wet mix.

For growing indoors you should always use a soilless mix. Nearly all soilless mixes are mostly composed of peatmoss with additions of perlite and/or vermiculite. You can also make your own by mixing two thirds peatmoss or a peat based mix with a third part perlite. A couple of commonly available peat based mixes are Sunshine and Fafard. If you use plain peatmoss you should premoisten it before using because it can sometimes be hard to wet in the first place. When I use peat, I wet it with boiling water to get it slightly damp and then use it after it cools. I wouldn't recommend using any amendments you would commonly use outdoors such as leaf mold or manure, or even garden soil. These will cause your mix to stay too wet indoors and also invite diseases. A peat mix is the perfect mix for indoors since it drains well, but holds the perfect amount of moisture for the plant without staying too wet. I would use the same mix for begonias in terrariums.
As far as watering goes, a good pot for using indoors is the type called a self-watering pot. There are many brands and they work well for most begonias. You should also only use a peat based mix for these types of pots; anything else will stay too wet.. Allow the mix to dry out slightly before refilling the reservoir again.

3. Watering

Regardless of what you have read in indoor gardening books, there are few plants that want to stay constantly moist. Besides, constantly moist is near impossible to achieve. Allow the surface of the mix to dry out slightly and then water thoroughly till water runs out the bottom when using conventional pots. Don't use saucers unless you fill them with pebbles so that the plant doesn't sit in water. You can use bottom watering, but empty the water out of the saucer after a couple of hours. Most begonias will also grow well using wick watering such as is used for African violets and gesneriads.

4. Humidity

Humidity is the biggest problem with growing begonias indoors. Although begonias don't like to be in wet soil, they do like humidity in the air. You can achieve enough humidity for many types of begonias by simply misting them daily. You can also use a humidifier. If you are growing plants under fluorescent lights a simple way to keep good humidity is to cover the plant stand with a plastic tent (make sure to use nonflammable plastic). They will still usually benefit from misting inside the tent because if the light fixtures are inside the tent they tend to keep it warmer and the air will dry out faster.

5. Terrariums

There are many begonias that are easier to maintain and that you will have greater success with if they are grown in terrariums. It's possible that your past attempts with terrariums have soured you on them, but if you follow a few simple rules you should do well with them. Most people keep their terrariums too wet and this is the most common reason for failure. You should only use a sterile medium for growing and this should only be damp.
The two most common mediums are the peat mix listed above or plain green sphagnum moss (don't use the brown florist type sphagnum). If you use peatmoss, first put in a layer of perlite or pebbles in the bottom covered by a thin layer of mix. This will allow any extra water a place to drain. If you use sphagnum, wet it first with hot water and squeeze out the extra water before using. Peat and sphagnum are already basically sterile and if you take the added precaution to wet with boiling water before use, it will be even more so. There will always be some glass fogging after planting, but if it's excessive, crack the lid open until it has dried out enough that you can close tightly. Terrariums require less light than plants in pots and should never get direct sun. They should also not be fertilized often. Since the soil in a terrarium never gets flushed, the salts will build up and damage the plant.

6. Fertilizing

All plants that are actively growing do best with regular fertilizing. There are many brands of fertilizer formulated so you can fertilize every time you water by adding a few drops to the watering can. You can also just mix your own weak fertilizer such as quarter strength and use once a week.

7. Additional Notes

Begonias grown indoors can be pinched or pruned any time of the year. Any plants you bring indoors from outside will probably adjust easier if you trim them back. This will also give you cuttings to start a back up plant in case your plant doesn't do well with the change of conditions.

Indoor plants in nice warm conditions are very prone to mealy bugs. The easiest and least toxic mealy bug killer is plain rubbing alcohol. You can brush the mealy bugs with a cue tip or artist brush dipped in the alcohol and they die on contact. For a badly infested plant you can also put the alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the entire plant. It won't harm the plant. Avoid spraying the soil directly as a precaution.
Hope this article gives you a few ideas and helps you to grow begonias indoors successfully.

Housing a Yucca Plant Indoors During the Winter

By Carly Fiske, eHow Contributor , last updated March 20, 2012

Yucca plants are tough desert species, so they are highly tolerant of drought and poor soil, but they are not designed for freezing weather. Yuccas can survive occasional subfreezing temperatures, but they may succumb to damage or death if the weather is extreme. If you live in a region where frost is expected, it's a smart idea to grow the yucca plant in a container so you can temporarily relocate it indoors during cold spells.

Freeze Damage

• Many yucca species are native to hot, dry deserts and frost-free climates. If temperatures are below freezing for a few hours at a time, the plants may suffer blackened, dead regions on their fleshy leaves. The blackened areas eventually dry out. Despite some amount of plant tissue loss, occasional freeze damage does not usually kill a plant. The plant will likely recover, unless the cold is extreme or of long duration.

Indoor Protection

• If your region is prone to freezes, it is best to transplant the yucca into a container and move it indoors before winter arrives. Set the plant in a bright location, such as near a sun-exposed window. Keep the plant dry during this time, as it grows little during the fall and winter. Any time the weather is harsh from hail, thunder or snow, bring the potted yucca inside. Yucca plants easily survive indoors through the winter. When spring arrives or the weather warms up, place it outdoors.

Temperature Tolerances

• The cold tolerance of yucca plants varies according to species, orientation and other factors. Based on research at the University of Florida, many yucca species, including Yucca filamentosa, Yucca aloifolia and Yucca gloriosa, are cold tolerant and do not experience significant cold damage at 15 F. Others, such as Yucca decipiens, show slight freeze damage at that temperature. Humid climates and irrigated areas make yucca more susceptible to freeze damage.

Preventing Freeze Damage

• If your yucca plant is growing in the ground, there are a few methods for preventing cold damage. Grow it near the wall of the house or adjacent to a patio so it can receive radiant heat. Cover it with a sheet to keep it insulated. Set a 60-watt light bulb under the sheet, with some clearance, to provide extra warmth. Place the yucca plant near a deciduous shrub or tree to protect it from winter cold. Decrease irrigation in the fall or winter when the plant slows its growth; extra moisture makes the fleshy leaves susceptible to freezing. If the plant experiences freeze damage, it will likely produce new growth on the lower part of the plant.